A question I often here is, “What is thermal spray?”

Here’s a simple answer. “Do you know how you spray paint, well do the same thing except we spray molten metals, alloys, carbides, or ceramics.”

Thermal spray is a process where a metal, alloy, or ceramic is melted, atomized, and sprayed. The molten material forms small droplets that flatten out and rapidly solidify as they hit the object being coated. The purpose is to add a layer of material to a component with a different material to change the surface properties. This layer is called the additive layer or the coating. The material that is added to the surface adheres to the base material because of mechanical bonding forces.

Thermal Spray is sometimes confused with welding and brazing. These are two very distinctively different technologies. All three of these technologies can add a layer of material to change the surface properties of parts. The methods and dynamics of how it is done are different.

Welding uses heat to melt the base material of the part being coated and it bearing seal melts the material that is being added to the surface of the part. The melting of the two materials is followed by mixing of the two materials followed by rapid solidification.

With brazing, typically neither the base material or the additive layer are melted. There is a brazing alloy that is between the component and the additive layer that melts. The melting of the brazing alloy creates a chemically interaction with both materials to bond them together.

Thermal spray does not melt the base material, but does melt the additive layer. In fact, in thermal spray you want to keep the surface temperature of the part being coated below 300 degrees F. This allows you to coat parts without distorting them from significant heat being added to the base component. Additionally, it typically will not change the heat treat properties of the part being coated.

It is common to use thermal spray to coat components with dissimilar materials that are not normally compatible. Some examples would be:

- a metal part with a dissimilar metal or alloy

- cast iron butterfly valves with stainless

- plain carbon steel sculptures with bronze

- a metal part with a carbide

- fan blades for coal fly ash applications

- a bearing seal area on a pump

- a metal part with a ceramic

- gas turbine blade with a thermal barrier ceramic

- high definition printer (anilox) rolls with chrome oxide

- a wood with metal

- table tops with zinc or modern o ring box pewter

- sculptures with bronze or copper

In the above examples all of, welding or brazing are not practical options.

All thermal spray processes have three common elements:

1. A source of energy to melt the additive layer

2. A source of material for the additive layer

3. A method to atomize and spray the additive layer.

Form of Energy:

You need to have a source of energy to melt the material to be used as the additive layer. The common sources of energy are combustion gases, electric arc, plasma flame, or velocity. In each case, a the energy is created in a device called a thermal spray torch or gun. The torches are deigned to be handheld or machine mounted for automation purposes. Temperatures generated from these energy sources range from 1000 degrees F to 20,000 degrees F.

The distribution of the gases and electricity for these torches bearing seal are managed in a “control console”. The gun is connected to the console with hoses and cables to deliver the exact quantities of gases and electricity to the torch.

Source of material.

The only materials that can be used in standard thermal spray processes must be able to be go from a solid to a liquid and back to a solid.

The source of material for thermal spray comes in one of two forms, powder or wire. If a material can be made into a wire or powder, typically the cost of manufacturing a wire is lower. For large volume applications, the economics will point you toward selecting a thermal spray system using wire.

Some materials are only available in powder due to manufacturing or material property limits. In that case, a thermal spray system that uses powder will be the better choice.

We also have several examples where we have manufactured hollow wire with a powder. This does give us the benefit of combining the best of both worlds. There are limits as to how this technology can be used and will be covered in future articles.

The larger thermal spray operations purchase equipment to be able to do both.

There are some really interesting exceptions to these general comments above that include combining powder with that are best suited for another article.

Master cylinders manufactured by ATE, Girling and Bendix utilize 2 or 3-chamber reservoirs, a level sensor contact is built into each chamber.

A warning light is activated when brake fluid level is low or when pressure differential between two brake circuits is caused by loss of fluid in either circuit.

Floating type front disc brake calipers are used on the 190, 420 and 560 series; Not floating type calipers on other models with parking brakes are cable-actuated in rear brake rotor calipers.

All models have brake pad wear indicators and differential pressure warning indicator.

Wear sensors for 420 and 560 series operates on inner pads only.

The Anti-Lock Brake System is standard on 420SEL, 300 and 560 series (optional on 190 series).
On diesel models, a vacuum pump is incorporated to supply a vacuum to the power brake unit.

ADJUSTMENTS PEDAL HEIGHT & FREE PLAY

Pedal height measured from pedal pad to pedal stop should be 150 m.m.
to adjust loosen lock nuts and turn stop light switch until correct pedal height is obtained tighten lock nuts; pedal free play should be 5-15 m.m..

BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
The stoplight switch is located under dash, above brake pedal loosen lock nuts and adjust switch so that contact button extends 6-8 m.m. then tighten lock nuts.

PARKING BRAKE
1. Remove only one wheel lug bolt at each rear wheel, raise vehicle.

2. Rotate wheel until lug bolt hole is positioned over parking brake adjuster,rubber grommets approximately 45 degrees forward for diagonal swing axle and 90 degrees forward for diagonal swing axle with starting torque compensation.

ADJUSTING PARKING BRAKE MECHANISM
Parking brake must be adjusted if brake pedal can be depressed by more than 2 steps of 6 without any braking effect, do not alter adjusting screw on parking brake intermediate lever; these screws are for balancing cable lengths only.

3. Using screwdriver inserted through lug bolt whole hand turn adjuster until rear wheel cannot be turned, back off the adjuster until wheel can be turned without wheel dragging.

TESTING THE BRAKE WARNING LIGHT
1. Dual warning light is mounted on dash, turn ignition on and the light should glow when parking brake lever is pulled to one notch and go off when brake lever is fully released.

2. To check circuit warning sensor, turn ignition on, release the parking brake and ensure light is off,
Open bleeder screw on one wheel and depress brake pedal and the light should light up.

3. Close bleeder screw, replenish the brake fluid and bleed system, check that light goes out after testing and if not; differential pressure pin in the master cylinder must be reset.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION OF DISC BRAKE PADS

Removal 420SEL, 300 & 560 Series

1. Raise vehicle and remove wheels, remove upper hex head caliper bolt.

2. Pull clip of the brake pad wear sensor out of plug by opening cap on plug, rotate caliper downward and remove pads from carrier.

3. Standard front disc brake pad assembly thickness including lining backing o ring box plate is 17.5 m.m. Standard rear pad assembly thickness is 15.5 m.m..

4. Front backing plate thickness is 4.5 m.m. Rear backing plate thickness is 5mm Minimum pad thickness is 2 m.m..

Mercedes Benz Single Piston Disc Brake Caliper cleaning.

1. Using brass cylinder brush clean disc pad guide surface in caliper, siphon fluid from master cylinder to prevent overflowing press piston to bottom of bore.

2. Install disc pads and wear sensor wires, reverse removal procedure to complete installation and check that dash light goes out.

Removal All Other Mercedes Benz Models

1. Raise vehicle and remove wheels, remove cover plate from caliper and disconnect wear indicator wires.

2. Drive out retaining pins toward inside of vehicle, on Bendix brakes retaining pins have locking pins, then remove the locking pins and retaining pins then the cross spring retainers.

3. Remove disc pads from caliper, if not reusable note condition and location of pads for re installation.

4. Standard front disc brake pad assembly thickness including bearing seal lining backing plate is 17.5 m.m. Standard rear pad assembly thickness is 15 m.m..

5. Front backing plate thickness is 4.5 m.m. rear backing plate thickness is 5 m.m. minimum pad thickness is 2 m.m..

1. Using cylinder brush clean disc pad guide surface in caliper, siphon fluid from master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflowing, press pistons to bottom.

2. Mercedes Benz Disc Brake Pads.

3. Install cover plate retaining pin locking keys and wear sensor wires, check that dash light goes out, and the reset pin at master cylinder.

Fastening systems are important in aircraft construction because of the shear number of fasteners used. Aerospace fasteners and fastener tooling or fastener installation tools are critical in the construction process and are often automated for cost-saving.

Fatigue strength is important for safety and durability, particularly in primary structures and assemblies. AN, MS and NAS are all quality standards indicative of strength, but also tolerance, dimensions, and finish. Blind structural fasteners, while historically rubber grommets lacking in strength, are being improved because they offer the advantage that they need access from one side only.

Sealed fasteners that provide a sealed joint are used in wing fuel tanks for example. Composite fasteners are also being developed for the kind of advanced materials that are introduced for applications in an industry at the cutting edge. High strength fasteners for structures are frequently distinguished by the material they are made from, for example, alloy 600 or titanium fasteners. Titanium has the added advantage for aircraft fasteners, that it is light.

Stainless steel clamps have aircraft applications such as worm-screw clamps for use on fuel, oil, air and coolant lines. The worm drive provides uniform clamping pressure without distorting the hose.

Nuts and nut plates and panel fasteners are commonplace in the aircraft interiors industry. Floating nut plates can also be used to fasten to the fuselage of an unpressurised aircraft. Lockbolts and collars are a common method of fastening interior panels because they spread the load across a greater area, large heads and equally large flanges on the collars.

Self-locking nuts do not need a locking device. The most common method of locking comes from the use of inserts. Locknuts are used in high temperature environments or when subject to vibration.

Bolts are used for strength, but if strength is not a requirement, screws are fine.

Pins are used to secure two objects together. Holes are bored in one or both of the objects and the pins inserted. Pins can be straight, tapered, rolled or grooved and provide perfect alignment, holding parts in
absolute relation to one another. They also prevent slippage due to high motion.

Quick release fasteners are another type of fastener used in aircraft interiors, bearing seal ie removing panels for easy access.

Aerospace hardware can include aircraft tooling generally, not just fastener installation tools.

Aerospace bearings.

Bearings are ubiquitous in aircraft, hydraulic actuators (rod end bearings), landing gear and wheels, flight controls (roller bearings), slats, flaps and flight control surfaces (needle roller bearings), joints, hatch and door mechanisms and aerospace fans.

Hydraulic fittings join titanium tube, stainless steel tube or braided steel hose and are usually subject to 3000 psi. or more.

Aerospace gaskets and seals.

Carbon-faced seals are mechanical face seals that mate up to the rotating mating ring, bearing, or shaft. The seal face in the stationary portion provides the low friction wear element that rides on the harder wear
resistant mating surface. Both the seal face and mating surfaces are typically lapped flat, providing a virtually leak tight seal.

Gaskets too have many varied functions among which is metal O-rings, made from v packing a corrosion and heat resistant steel tubing which form tubular sealing rings. They are primarily for sealing fluid systems at
temperatures where the operating conditions are too severe for conventional elastomeric O-ring seals.
AS9100 hydraulic packings are seals for hydraulic cylinders in aerospace use, where durability is a prime consideration. Teflon O-rings cannot be melted and teflon is inert, with a very low coefficient of friction.

By using the latest inventory management systems and demand modelling software, companies in the aerospace hardware sector usually operate on a worldwide scale processing a huge number of orders daily.

Arguably one of the most difficult and the most enjoyable parts of planning your wedding is choosing your trumpet wedding dress. Make sure you start well ahead of time as some dresses need to be made to order, which can take up to 6 months depending on how busy the designer is.

Firstly think about the theme or tone of your wedding, and where it is taking place. If you are having a large, grandiose wedding in an elegant setting, then you may want to ensure you stand out by having a suitably stunning gown to wear. On the other hand if you are having a quiet, informal reception then you may want to tone things down a bit so that you don’t look over the top. Also you need to sit down and think very realistically about your figure. There is no perfect figure for a trumpet wedding dress, as they come in so many different shapes and designs, which is good news as you should be able to find one that suits your individual look and personality perfectly. When is comes to colour, white is not the only option so think about colours you normally wear and look good in. Very bright colours look stunning when matched against contrasting shades, but this can be overpowering or even gaudy if not judged absolutely perfectly so take care. Also bright colours look best when kept simple, so keep the detail and design minimal and let the colours speak for themselves.

Beading and embroidery can be a wonderful way of individualizing a dress, but keep in mind that hand stitched fabrics can cost a premium, and you will need to allow plenty of time for the designer to complete the outfit if you are customizing your own design. Beading can also be helpful for drawing the eye to your best assets, whether it is a slim waist of shapely bust.

In terms of body shape there are a few general rules you can follow when out looking for a dress, which will help you narrow down your search. Don’t succumb to flattery! Be realistic about every dress you try on, and don’t even think about trying on dresses that are outside of your budget – this can save you a lot of heartache. If you are buying an off the rack dress don’t purchase it too soon before the wedding as your shape may change. Buy no more than a month before the wedding and make sure it fits perfectly, and then just maintain your weight as normal. Don’t buy a size smaller and hope it fits in time! Also remember to try each dress on with both high-heeled and flat shoes, so that you get an idea of what footwear you will need for the big day.

Basic Shapes:
Tall and Slim
Tall, slim woman do tend to have quite bony shoulders and collar bones, so you may want to think about a long, fitted dress that flatters your slim height, but with a high collar and cap sleeves to flesh out your top half. Beading and embroidery can be used to jazz up this high neckline and compensate for the lack of skin showing.

Short and Slim
A knee length fitted dress will flatter shorter, slimmer figures and low, fitted bodices look great on petite torsos. Try not to go too long and full with the skirt as you could end up looking swamped.

Short with a fuller figure
Empire line dresses look fantastic on curvy figures as the material just flows down from the seam at the bust line, hiding any lumps and bumps. You can get away with a floor length gown in this style without looking even shorter. Sleeves can be an option if you don’t like your upper arms, but keep them long and not too tight to give you room to move.

Tall with a fuller figure
Make a dramatic impact in a gloriously long and flowing empire line dress, cut low and fitted on the bodice area to show off your bust and shoulders. Long flowing sleeves are also an option if you do not like your upper arms, trumpet wedding dress and again keep them long and loose.

Full busts
If you are very top heavy avoid very low cut, short bodices and natural waistlines which will draw attention to this area. Also avoid any beading or detail in the bust area and keep it nice and simple.

Full hips
Stay away from any designs with bustles or tiers and anything that fits tightly across the hips. Dresses that fit at the top and flare down to the hem will skim over hips, but stay away from empire style if you also have a very large bust, as it can make you look solid all the way down by obliterating your waistline.

Wide shoulders
Straps can narrow your shoulders, as well as a long V-neckline. Stay away from low cut bodices as they will make you wider across the shoulders and also avoid puffed sleeves that will draw attention to this area.

Heavy arms or legs
Hide heavy legs with a long, floor length dress, and if you have thick ankles avoid very flat, or very slim narrow shoes that can make the ankle look even heavier. Sleeves are good for hiding thick arms, but keep them three quarter length and not too tight.

Talk to a single girl about trendy flower girl dresses and you’re sure to get an earful of must-haves. They talk about fairy princess gowns, expensive brocade, and unique gowns meant only for them. When it’s time for them to get their bridal gown, they fall down to earth with a bang.

Gown Malfunction

The thought of slipping or struggling into an ill-fitting wedding dress or tuxedo is everybody’s nightmare, worse than fending off Freddy Krueger on Elm Street. Those heavenly wedding dresses and tuxedos you’ve seen on rows and rows of racks can become disasters if you don’t make sure that alterations are carried out to perfection.

This is true if you’ve hastily ordered a gown on eBay or inherited a wedding gown from your grandmother’s heyday. Reputable bridal shops have experienced modistes who will do the alterations and beadwork by hand. Their experience with wedding dresses won’t have you ending up with tight chested gowns with tight armholes.

Other bridal dresses disasters including popping buttons, shrunk gowns, improper accessories, inappropriate undergarments, a zipper that won’t close, and a tiara that does not look right with the gown. And these are discovered on the wedding day!

Avoiding Gown Disasters

Usually the gown is selected a year or six months before the trendy flower girl dresses because several things can happen in-between. It’s better to get a gown six months ahead, instead of a year. These helpful tips are products of years of wedding gown disasters handed from one bride to another.

Rules to go by for the perfect wedding gown:

* Don’t get pregnant.

* Watch your weight.

* Follow a strict beauty regimen.

When shopping for the gown, don’t let your groom, sister, bridesmaids and your mom tag along. Instead, choose one or two friends and your mom to go with to check out the wedding dresses on the rack. You can start the great hunt with a picture or photo cut-out of a wedding gown that has caught your fancy.

Other tips to follow:

* Don’t get a gown with a long train if you have no handler. Although it looks romantic and gorgeous, having a long bridal train can be disastrous if you have no handler or someone to attend to the train whenever you move.

* Make sure the gown has the correct hem. During the fitting, bring the shoes with the right height so the hem can be adjusted accordingly.

* Wear the proper brassiere or corset for the perfect fit during the fitting.

* While fitting, choose the right veil, gloves, crinolines, and other wedding accessories at the same shop.

* Choose the right accessories to enhance the look of your gown.

* Fittings should take place 8 weeks before the wedding, and check the zippers and the buttons when the gown is delivered.

* If it can be arranged, have a fitting a week before the wedding.

* Have your bridal photo session and dress rehearsal two days before the wedding.

Remember that the trendy flower girl dresses reflect the tastes and personality of the bride, so make your choice, but listen to some comments or advice from the resident designer of the bridal shop. They have something to say to help you avoid those wedding gown disasters.

Wedding dresses make the bride, so do not rush and regret those wedding gown booboos.

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